Category Archives: Iran


Censure du web, épisode 2

I had already published an article on this subject concerning a draft media law to the net in France. I explained why the setting up of a filtering, even for a cause that could seem Honourable, was the first step towards a possible uncontrollable drift of ' vigilantes’ from the Net.

This drift, We have seen in Iran : There, a system similar to what is proposed in France is indeed implemented, with its many consequences. Tout d’abord, for the citizen (I don't know if they are still called like this !) or the average traveller, the effect is direct, Here is a small list of the measures taken :

• Censorship of all sites that include words such as ' sex’ or ' politic’ : Surely one of the first measures taken by the Islamic Government, This is directly prohibited by the Quran (After the manner of France with pedophilia). We have heard stories of teachers/researchers doing a thesis on the reproduction of animals complaining to the Rector that the totality of the sources of information they needed to complete their project were censored…

• Censorship of all sites of expression or sharing : blogs, social networks, Download site, etc. Pour cela, they have not done in lace : blocking simple and nasty sites such as, over -, and all those that host blogs (same technique than what is proposed by France for pedophilia sites). Same for Facebook, Twitter, and for many sharing sites (FlickR and Picasa for photos, YouTube and Vimeo for videos, Google Docs and similar for documents, etc.).

• Analysis of all content via the Net : no doubt the most serious of all this. A bit like what is done to the position of Iran, where one comes with a closed letter to post, they simply open, look inside and then the close with buffers “c’est bon” on the scotch. On the same net technique : everything that passes on the net is analysed by the method DPI, Deep Packet Inspection. Exemple : you are French in Iran during the Iranian presidential elections, qui, probably rigged, cause the wrath of Iranians who take to the streets. You talk quite naturally these events in mails to your family, while indicating that for you everything goes well. Error ! The Iranian authorities, not wanting that a such new kind of its borders, has put key words under supervision : your mails containing, they are read by cyberpoliciers who then stop you and put you in prison one year for spying. Unfortunately, this story is not invented, because it is the Clothilde Reiss, from it-there about two years… All this to say that it is irrelevant to send news detailed his family during his stay in Iran, everything is analyzed and potentially read by anyone…

Finally, do not dramatize nor, It is always possible to connect to all websites using a few tricks ! (Method not however recommended for real spies wishing to send the military factory of uranium enrichment plans)
To access our blog, on our Facebook page and everything from our PC, We used a small software, which does not require installation, and who serves as proxy, It means that it creates a kind of tunnel between the PC and another location in the world. This software is called FreeGate and is free. For people in an area that practice censorship, It may be difficult to get it then here is a small Download link for the more easily retrieve ! (remove the XXX for a normal .exe executable).


To use it, c’est facile : launch the software, then use IE to surf !

So much for this article a little geek, but who has a commitment to everyone. I hope that with the change of Presidency, draconian net french drift will stop ! :-)


Iran : fonctionnement des boulangeries

Flash back to an article that we had forgotten to post, about the bakery of Iran !

This indeed deserves a small article, their operation is somewhat different from what is used in France and other countries.

The bread is prepared in front of everyone, in the single room of the bakery

Their specificity is as follows : bread is made from stretched flows. The breads are baked in advance, the bakers not only preparing a small amount both, which leaves almost instantly with people who queue. The advantage is that the bread is hot, but it means to queue every time, or wait for the next batch time…

Small Iranian-style bread making courses :

Make a ball of dough, then flatten out it on the table
With fingers full of flour, make small holes and small bumps in the dough

This technique gives a mix between crusty bread (at the level of the holes) and fluffy (at the level of the bumps) : This is excellent, and I know what I am talking about for bread !
Par contre, the lifetime of this bread and very low : Once cold, it very quickly becomes either very dry or very soft… Hence the need to make small batches !

Put it all on the turntable in the oven : After three rounds, It is cooked !

The rotating oven, gas, does not require of preheating, and appears to be very effective : time to put the last bread on the plate, the first are cooked : No dead time !

Hot breads are immediately purchasers !

Small additional course of an old lady to Eglantine, to show how to wrap the bread in a bag plastic and then tie the knot !

Malheureusement, all Iranian breads are not of this type, and we have tasted other, very fine, like in the carton, that we have not loved…


Je veux être nomade !

Entre Mashad et le Turkménistan, il semble qu’il y ai quelques nomades, ou du moins, des éleveurs qui pratiquent la transhumance.
Nous remarquons ça en apercevant depuis la route des camps faits de tentes, avec un enclos temporaire à côté, quelques voitures, des poules et des chiens.

Une colline plantée de moutons !

Mais ces “nomades” vont nous offrir ce moment qui restera gravé dans nos mémoires parmi les plus forts du voyage… Then, c’est difficile à partager, mais essayons quand même !

Lors d’une de nos dernières étapes iraniennes, nous nous installons pour bivouaquer dans ce qu’on pense être au milieu de nulle part. Devant nous, une plaine infinie avec quelques montagnes toutes nues pour agrémenter un peu le paysage. Pas de poteaux électriques (la route et les poteaux sont juste derrière nous, mais bon…), pas de construction, pas même un arbre, nous nous croyons déjà en Mongolie !

Ça ne vous fait pas penser à la Mongolie ?

Et voilà ce qu’il y a de chouette avec ces gens, c’est qu’au milieu de nulle part justement, ils arrivent, pof ! Par curiosité, tranquillement, nous voyons arriver sur une moto deux jeunes bergers. Ils se posent avec nous, on communique en souriant mais sans trop se comprendre … le mieux est toujours de boire un petit thé ! Les voilà donc qui s’en vont chercher tout ce qu’il faut : du thé, de l’eau, des tasses, du sucre, du bois pour faire chauffer (alors qu’il n’y a pas d’arbres à des kilomètres à la ronde) et un âne pour porter le tout ! Et c’est parti, jusqu’à la tombée de la nuit, on est posé autour du feu à siroter ce petit thé. Entre temps, un troisième berger nous rend visite, je fais un petit tour en âne, on rigole bien !

Chacun sa bécane !

Feu de bois contre réchaud !

C’est que ce n’est pas évident à diriger ces bêtes là !

Ca y est, j’ai pris le coup !

Gare à toi le chien, je suis un grand chevalier !

Comme la nuit tombe, ils s’en vont, ils retournent à leur campement qui est de l’autre côté de la colline.

Mais ce n’est pas fini. Après le dîner, on continue la soirée ensembles, le temps s’est arrêté, nous nous sommes perdus avec joie au pays de l’insouciance. Nos amis nous apprennent à nous repérer dans cette nouvelle contrée jusqu’à ce que le bois pour le feu soit épuisé. Nos guides repartent à trois sur leur petite moto dans la brousse, le sourire toujours accroché aux lèvres.

On s’endort heureux, heureux et insouciants, nous sommes presque nomades !


Les rêveurs, à nouveau cyclo !

What a sweet feeling from Mashad, Despite the horns of trucks and mopeds pursuing us !
We are on the road again, After nearly a month without rolling, you feel free to a point that it is difficult to describe.

Visiblement, We went from the dark side of the cyclo : It feels good, even travelling more than 150 km of desert in a day, We want more !

Found our tent girlfriend and our buddy stove. They form a great team, they hold the road despite the big wind blows, a gasoline sometimes very very doubtful, or land that might not seem very conducive to camping !

“Shower” in public !

Bref, all that to say that we are pleased to be on the road, to drown in landscapes of sight, to meet both around soup lyophilized night and wet T-shirt again !


Mashad, not so bad !

We will begin this post by a big thank you to guests couchsurfer of Mashhad ! If we had a good time in Mashhad, It is essentially thanks to them !

And yes, the angle of approach of the city is always special when it is presented by inhabitants.

En effet, We are first found in a french course, not commonplace in this country!

Little lesson on the Cannes Festival

Why the Iranians would want to learn the french you say ? You are going to be disappointed, en général, It is not for the beauty of the language, but only to be able to emigrate to the Canada… And yes, We understand by discussing with students that their main motivation in life is to leave their country, and it happens that the Canada offers very favourable immigration conditions, with the naturalization of all immigrants, provided that they satisfy a very complete specification, whose knowledge of English and French languages (It is a little more complicated than that, with a history of points, but we pass you details). The snag is that these people are generally 3 ou 4 years that the procedure be done to see if they can go…
Finally, This french course was a good opportunity for us to make the revision of the COD and IOC, but especially to meet all these people interested in the french, in particular the profs !

It is the crazy !

But Mashhad, Despite a small portion of the population who would like to leave the country because of the diet very, is primarily a city of pilgrimage for Shiite Muslims.

In the heart of the city, It is the mausoleum of Imam Reza. Then, You may not know who is this guy, We no more, but we didn't want to miss this place of worship which everyone told us both.
To be able to enter the religious grounds, wear hejab and black chador, la totale ! And normally, the site is forbidden to non-Muslims.
We have not been disappointed by entering the scene. Not not the dozen mosques built the next to each other are beautiful (We have seen previously were much more), but we bathed the time of the visit in an oppressive atmosphere of religious fanaticism. It really is very impressive to see these men and women to fight almost to touch the tomb of imam Reza. Certain(e)s cry while reciting their prayers, everyone affects all objects “sacred” accessible before the hands on the face, and even the dead come on pilgrimage ! Bref, We have evolved almost an hour in this genuine religious complex observing the behaviour of all these people sometimes came from the other end of the Iraq.

It makes less crazy people…

Outside the mausoleum, There's not much remarkable in Mashhad, and our stopover was well short (primarily to retrieve the Turkmen visa), then we just walked in parks, in the “juice bar” for enjoying smoothies and this is, What us to rest before resuming the road to Turkmenistan.


Escapade à Qazvin

From Tehran, It takes us walk us left to right, which in Qazvin.

The old doors

We discover small wonders through our private guide who is none other than the Director of the Museum of the city.

We therefore start by the Museum, where we still discover many things about the General history of the country, then we visit a Palace of the Shah in Qazvin was the capital.

Little Palace of campaign !

Ensuite, We are going to lose in the huge Caravanserai under renovation. We are all alone in this maze of corridors in bricks that sometimes overlook major courses, sometimes on large rooms to camels !

We agree also with the just renovated Bazaar, awaits to be reinvested, Maybe one day… Visiblement, all these works are undertaken without knowing what will happen to these spaces !

Finally, We continue our city tour, an Iranian ice cream by hand – SAFRAN, almonds and pistachio, to take a look at the ancient baths and all sharp mausoleum of Iranian poet.

The hammam, converted into a Museum.
The mausoleum.
Inscription on the door of the mausoleum

Qazvin is a rich town with a dynamic cultural heritage that we have rarely seen elsewhere and notable sites !

And long live spring !

A Téhéran, on prend du bon temps !

And yes, ce n’est pas parce qu’on entreprend la course aux visas qu’on ne fait rien à côté !

Nous avons été magnifiquement accueillis à Téhéran !
On prend le temps de dessiner, de faire la sieste ou de discuter dans la cour fleurie !

On nous avait dit que la ville était affreuse, bondée de gens et avec un trafic intenable, mais nous nous y sommes bien plu et nous en avons bien profité !
D’abord parce que nous sommes arrivés au moment de Nourouz, soit au moment où tous les téhéranais partent à la campagne, du coup, nous avons eu la ville pour nous. Nous avons aussi bien aimé le paysage en arrière plan avec cette grande montagne toute blanche. Et surtout, nous avons senti la ville bouillir malgré des apparences bien respectueuses des règles !

Nous avons été baignés dans des lieux imprégnés de la culture anté-révolution et/ou révolutionnaire, rencontré une foule de personnes qui vivent dans cette ville en ayant des idées et des modes de vie bien opposés à ce qu’essaie d’imposer le régime, et on s’est même dévoilé et embrassé en pleine rue, scandale !

Les buffets à l’iranienne, un régal !
Faites un vœu pour Nouruz !

Évidemment, nous éviterons de citer les personnes et les lieux découverts dans la capitale, mais sachez qu’ils existent et que nous les remercions pour tout ce qu’ils ont fait pour nous !

Here, deux semaines de grand repos, à se balader dans les lieux mythiques de la ville comme le bazaar, le nouveau métro, le musée des verreries, les restaurants cantines ou encore le grand parc du sud.

Le musée des verreries et sa surprenante mise en scène !

Nous avons pu admirer tous ces bâtiments en construction dans le nord de la ville – structures métalliques remplies au béton, du rapide ! Nous avons aussi observé toutes ces fresques des martyrs qui ornent la ville, pour varier avec la tête des deux grands ayatollahs. Finally, on commençait à s’y faire !

Nike – Carlsberg, une belle association !!
Vous les voyez, les militaires qui sont “au coin” ? Hé ! Hé !