Category Archives: Russia

RUS_6908

Archi russe !

Voilà une autre spécialité russe qui a rythmé notre traversée : les isbas (isby pour les russophones avertis !). Si l’urbanisme des villes ne brille pas par la qualité architecturale, nous trouvons, dans les campagnes, de charmantes petites maisons en bois qui font la base des villages que nous traversons.

Voilà quelques échantillons :

Façades

Détails

Ces maisons sont donc principalement construites en bois. Le mystère concerne les toitures, que nous avons toutes vues en tôle : mais avant, c’était comment ?? En bois sûrement, et la ressource ne manque pas dans les parages !

En tout cas, le contraste est frappant entre le Kazakhstan, pays de steppe, où les maisons sont plutôt en terre, et la Russie, où la taïga est immense, et du coup, le matériau favori est bien le bois.
D’un côté, ces maisons ont l’air toute simples, un peu sommaires, tant dans le mode de construction que dans les volumes, mais d’un autre côté, les décorations et les peintures sont tellement chansticotées que c’est vraiment pittoresque !


Même les toilettes sont des petites maisons en bois !

Parfois, ils ont oublié le bois…

Voilà une maison de maître, au centre de Krasnoiarsk, vestige d’une époque où les villes étaient également en bois.

Ca c’est de l’huisserie !

Voilà une rue classique des villages que nous avons traversés.

Même les puits sont travaillés, en harmonie avec la maison !

Pas très droit tout ça !

Ma maison de poupées préférée !

Comme vous pouvez le voir, je suis tombée en extase devant ces jolies petites maisons traditionnelles. Je n’ai pas vraiment réussi à transmettre mon enthousiasme au reste de l’équipe camionneuse !

RUS_6885

Lac Baikal

Ah ! Le Baïkal, objet de tant de rêves depuis ma plus tendre enfance…
Il ne s’est pas vraiment présenté sous son jour le plus idyllique, mais nous avons apprécié l’expérience !


Première vue sur le Baïkal !

Pas idyllique car le temps était plutôt nuageux, voire même pluvieux par moments, mais cela ne m’a pas empêchée de me baigner !
Lulu nous a emportés jusqu’au bord du lac et nous nous sommes installés au milieu des russes en week-end avec canes à pêche et tout le toutim.
En plus d’un petit bain, nous avons dégusté du poisson tout frais offert par les campeurs d’à côté, et ça, c’est le top !

Baignade !
Bucollique

Un squatteur, bien content de récupérer les restes !

L’autre faune des rives du lac…

Ca, c’était notre première escale au bord du lac, mais ce n’est pas fini, le lac est immense et nous le longeons pendant plus d’une journée, ce qui nous donne l’occasion de passer une seconde nuit avec vue. Mais cette fois-ci, le paysage est complètement différent. Nous sommes dans un immense delta et en arrivant au bord du lac, nous avons l’impression d’arriver en Normandie (je ne dis pas la Bretagne, parce qu’en Bretagne, il fait toujours beau contrairement à ici !)

Il y a une plage, bordée de dunes bien vertes, des petits chalutiers, une petite bruine et un vent à décorner les bœufs ! Ici, pas question de se baigner, les rouleaux formés par le vent sont dignes de Biarritz et le vent est glacial. Nous avons vraiment la sensation d’être au bord de la mer !

Le matin, départ imminent pour la pêche, que d’hommes !

Nous avons donc eu plusieurs aperçus de cet immense lac (avec 25 millions de mètres cube d’eau, le lac représente 1/5 des ressources d’eau douce du monde !) alors que nous l’avons longé sur une toute petite portion.

RUS_6581

Irkoutsk, ville sibérienne

After a week in Russia, We have not yet had the opportunity to do a lot of “Tourism” in the country.
We have yet gone through cities like Novosibirsk and Krasnoyarsk, but it is only by visiting Irkutsk that we really appreciate our visit.

En effet, This capital of Baikal is one of the only cities in Siberia whose construction date to before the October Revolution. We have therefore a rich architectural heritage and an imperial city structure that we had not seen before.
First religious monuments. We are even more sensitive to these churches we have not seen for a long time ! And yes, then we are again in Christian country since the Turkey (more than seven months so !) We mainly observed mosques (with a few exceptions).

The Russia is Christian, and more specifically Orthodox.

The frescoes are very colorful

We are witnessing a part of the office, exclusively Sung, c’est très beau

The only Catholic Church that we see is not open to the public. It has been transformed into concert hall !

It is quite pleasant to walk in the streets of Irkutsk (This is to say the name !), the buildings are well proportioned, the avenues are human-sized unlike the huge Soviet boulevards that we could see elsewhere, and he has almost enough trees and parks to not feel invaded by urban jungle.

Even an impression of culture “alternative” developing when we move next “the anti-cafe” with its decals on the front and we cross the Gothic Street !
And then there are all these spaces comfortable, comme le “Travelers’ coffee” where we stop to enjoy the wi - fi and a small good cookie. This is practical if not authentic !

The Russians “modern” the travelers

RUS_6341

WTF billes oranges comestibles

Throughout this period of “trucking”, We eat well, very very well ! And yes, in truck, You can carry a bit more gear and bike, du coup, Anne So and Max simmer us small dishes with all kinds of spices, sauces and salad dressings with same products they carry from the France ! We eat even in real plates porcelain and tea brewed in a real teapot !
Is that of happiness for our taste buds, our stomachs and our hearts in sum !

But we sometimes need to know to break the monotony of flavours, et pour ça, nous, the cycloreveurs, We are champions ! Here we go in quest of food in a supermarket. We are all four and we fall into judgment before the radius of the fish with the variety of tarama, Fish eggs and smoked fish to be found in Russia. Et voilà, We leave with a bag – It is already doubtful, what appears to be salmon eggs.


But when we open the package, We see these small fluo Orange balls spread on the plate. I read the ingredients (others had verified that it was not of “E machin”), and I realize that it is reconstituted eggs… They are very proud to include on the package “imitation of red eggs” (in Russian of course) ! Bon, still taste, It's a bit dirty, a bit soft, a little liquid but absolutely nothing to do with fish eggs !

The next time, We will try to look at the ingredients before purchasing a weird !

RUS_6532

Siberia

From the North of the Kazakhstan to the Mongolian border station, We are experiencing a little piece of Russia (seulement 3 000 km !). Beyond the Urals, We are in Siberia, but we are far from the image of a desolate steppe that we have before you get there. En effet, in this tiny portion of Siberia, We are going to discover a whole bunch of curiosities !
Our girlfriends are always on the road !

Containers converted into bathroom and road hotel rooms !
Soviet legacy
Idem

What we find on our road-side landscape, These are large ponds where you can swim, spaces of steppes and especially, the taiga, sometimes good rolling (the famous roller coaster Hey!Hey!).

At the edge of the pond of Novosibirsk
The nests of little Swifts us flying overhead when it bathes !


Our last bivouac before the Mongolia
A small bath and then go !

Bon, landscape might sometimes seem a bit monotonous when we spend several days in a row through immense forests of FIR and jobs. But we we not bored.

D’abord, the Russians are amazing. Those to whom we are trying to address a few words in our approximate Russian are often responsive and a little gross. For the most part, We have the impression that we are the first foreigners they encounter, and sometimes only, We get really cordial smiles. Bref, It looks like we have to do to bears, must be the good day !

Small roadside merchants will be our main source of fruit and vegetables
The specialty of this market : Strawberry, We will take what is make a like jam !

Except that in this season, bears are little dressed. And yes, We are far from the modesty of the previous countries, ici, When it's hot, removing her clothes, tout simplement ! And then, It should not happen often then you should take advantage !

We have not seen lots of water nearby, but the swimsuit is still de rigueur !
Including to go tinkering with the neighbour !

And then we drive along the Trans-Siberian railway rails, We turn next to the famous Lake Baikal, We are going through a few notable towns and observe the isba colorful wooden, but all this will be the subject of future articles !


Cemeteries are a good analysis of the customs field…

…We just celebrate the dead where they are !

Soviet stone

RUS_6449

Dis camion !

It is time for you to get to know with Anne So, Max, and Lulu, our three saviors who we will allow to go from Astana to the Mongolia within fifteen days only !

Max and Cindy in the fields
Lulu in the flowers !


Lulu, It's the truck, a good old utility converted into traveler in the long course. There are comforts : shower, toilettes, cuisine, convertible bed dining. There is also electricity, a library that goes well inspire us and a deco OWL which evolves as the trip according to the inspiration of Anne So.

Side kitchen !
Side lounge, with views of the bathroom there in the background

Lulu holds well road, It will take us in beautiful places of access not necessarily easy bivouac and especially, He swallows the kilometers on the Trans-Siberian sometimes in poor condition.

One of these steppe bivouac

The road in the taiga, with the Turkish Masallah reminds us of memories

For this, drivers are also heroes ! It's tiring to the hours of driving every day, I imagine evil in their place, I'd already asleep ten times !

Certes, There are sometimes life roadside, but it is quite punctual
Pause

But we are grateful for a whole bunch of other reasons : their generosity and calm (not easy to stay quiet when after five minutes in the truck, I've already broken a valve and that the bathroom is painted by tire tracks…).
We also learned a lot at their sides. Books, the docu and especially the discussions to remake the world from the after oil (but until it is forced) are sources of inspiration for our minds full reflection !
It would resume in discussion somewhere between Bordeaux and Toulouse one year or more ! Good road in the meantime (and happy birthday Anne So !) !


Merci à eux, It will be never enough said !